Clipstone

This is possibly one of our favourite Fitzrovia restaurants, and when restaurants were allowed to serve food to customers after MANY MONTHS, Devvers promptly booked a table for lunch… outdoors. In London. In April. On the shade. On a day with arctic cold wind. AAAH! ūü•∂

But: we had our woollies and thermal clothes on, they have installed heaters, and frankly, this food is so excellent, I was willing to sacrifice my comfort for a while to eat it again (the food, not my comfort).

This was our first restaurant experience in months! What a great comeback.

The menu, 25 April 2021

Cocktails

(Not pictured, because I was so excited at the prospect of eating in a restaurant that I forgot that sometimes I take pictures at restaurants).

Negroni, of course. The drink that started it all (between us). No, actually, it was coffee. But there were negroni too, so they have a special place in our memories.

Interestingly, we haven’t mixed these at home during the whole time the pandemic has been raging because we have been working through other spirits we had available, so it was very nice to drink one of these again, like a return to comfortable things. And it was just the right amount of strong, aromatic, and sweet. Very good.

Snacks

I had been thinking of the radishes with anchovy cream since the last time we ate here, back in August, in an impromptu decision one day we went to Regent’s Park for a walk.

The menu, 25 April 2021
Radishes and anchovy cream on the left; whipped cod’s roe and chips on the right

They deserved to occupy such a space in my mind. They’re so good. The whipped cod’s roe with the ‘chips’ underneath was also so delicious.

I am not a big fan of fish in general, and this type of creams and foams tend to be either underwhelming (where’s the flavour?) or overwhelming (so fishy it takes you aback). But these in particular are masterfully executed.

Starters

Beef tartare, pickled redcurrants, horseradish, pecorino.
Beef tartare, pickled redcurrants, horseradish, pecorino.
Marinated violet artichokes, Tropea onion & robiolina
Marinated violet artichokes, Tropea onion & robiolina

Mine was the artichokes dish. It was insultingly delicious. The vegetables are cooked so well here. I tried the tartare but it’s not my style. Give me more artichokes! I could have had two more of these.

Mains

Guinea fowl & tarragon pithivier, spring leeks & Madeira sauce
Guinea fowl & tarragon pithivier, spring leeks & Madeira sauce
Dexter onglet, BBQ white asparagus, roast shallots & parsley
Dexter onglet, BBQ white asparagus, roast shallots & parsley

That was all I wanted to eat and which I would not cook at home. It also had sesame seeds. It was fabulous.

Desserts (and wine)

Hazelnut praline éclairs

These were soft, and sweet, and full of hazelnutness. I paired mine with my favourite Moscato d’Asti of all the times, which was also a touch too sweet for the √©clair, but which I enjoyed nevertheless because it’s my favourite Moscato d’Asti of all the times and it makes everything right.

After that, we promptly went home because we were cold, and had to fight really hard to not fall asleep, because that had been a delicious lunch and oh how great it is to have fabulous food and drinks come to you. The luxury!

We also found it quite amusing that the people who were in the restaurant opposite us did not seem to smile and be as content as the people in Clipstone. Were they cold? Was it the food? Was it the drinks? Questions, questions.

When in doubt, Clipstone.

Clipstone Restaurant
5 Clipstone Street
London W1W 6BB
https://clipstonerestaurant.co.uk/

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