Valencia, February 2023

We went to València last week and… it is definitely a place where you can eat well!

Big Zuu recently visited the city and surrounding area for his programme called “12 Dishes in 12 Hours”; he did a great job of tasting what the area has to offer, and here is our version, I suppose. Though we haven’t counted the number of dishes and this is more like a week… anyway, to the food!

A greengrocer stall at Mercat de Russafa, with potatoes, onions, cabbages, cauliflowers and other vegetables.
Vegetables of dreams

First things first, we had to go to our local market in Russafa, to stock up on beautiful fruits, vegetables and deli items.

Very importantly, we caught the end of the citrus season and acquired three kilos of juicy clementines and the first of the Valencian spring strawberries!

Huerto de San Valero deli food stall in Mercat de Russafa, showing preserved fish like sardines, and olives, and other snacks
Huerto de San Valero deli food stall in Mercat de Russafa
A bowl with strawberries in overnight oats with soy milk
A bowl with strawberries in overnight oats with soy milk

We also decided to try a renovated bar called Amor Amargo in Russafa for a quick beer.

It was a weird time, too early for dinner and they seemed to be setting up still for the evening, but they put us on a table made out of barrels and then we were blasted with The Smiths over the speakers!

But perhaps the highlight was that they gave us vampire sweets (caramelos de Drácula) on the way out, a Spanish childhood treat!

Inside the old Bodega Seguí. A barrel used as a table and a few stools, and bottles in shelves in the background
Inside Amor Amargo (former Bodega Seguí)

The next day, we decided we needed a walk and a merienda, and just happened to find outselves at Valor for chocolate and churros… just happened, of course!

Upper floor of chocolate shop with the afternoon light flooding in through the windows. Tables and chairs.
The upper floor at Chocolates Valor in the afternoon light
A tray with churros and two hot chocolate cups (one with cream on top), on the afternoon sun at Chocolates Valor, Valencia
Chocolate y churros at Valor

Going back to the theme of fruits, we were gifted a batch of Seville oranges (long story, but one of my mother’s friends has lots of fruit trees).

So what do you do if life gives you oranges? You make marmalade! We even borrowed some old jam jars from my mum and will send her back a couple of jars when we next see her.

Top view of a cast iron pot with orange peel and a bag with the pulp and pips from the oranges
Making Seville orange marmelade
The pulp and pips bag for our sour orange marmelade
The pulp and pips bag for our sour orange marmelade
Four glass jars with home made sour orange marmalade
Four glass jars with home made sour orange marmalade
Toasted bread with butter and our homemade marmalade
Toasted bread with butter and our homemade marmalade

The other thing we did when visiting my mum, was to have a lovely lunch at La Cuina. The chefs like to include Japanese flavours with regional produce, and the lunch was very relaxing and the food tasty.

A glass of yuzu kombucha at La Cuina
A glass of yuzu kombucha at La Cuina
Quesadilla at La cuina
Quesadilla
Carrots with cashew nut cheese at La Cuina
Carrots with cashew nut cheese at La Cuina
View from La Cuina - a mountain range in the background, several cars in the foreground
View from La Cuina
A group of trees with the mountain range in the background, some clouds
Zooming into the trees

We went back to several of our favourites on the trip, the first being the Bar La Pilareta, for tasty mussels, calamari, montaditos, patatas, and a nice glass of vermouth.

Bar at La Pilareta
Bar at La Pilareta
Calamares at La Pilareta, with portion of mayonnaise in the background
Calamares at La Pilareta, with portion of mayonnaise
1/2 Patatas Bravas portion at La Pilareta
1/2 Patatas Bravas portion at La Pilareta
Blanc i negre montadito
Blanc i negre montadito
A beer, a glass of Alicante (Verger) white wine, a plate of mussels at La Pilareta
A beer, a glass of Alicante (Verger) white wine, a plate of mussels at La Pilareta
A plate of mussels at La Pilareta
A plate of mussels at La Pilareta
Menu at La Pilareta (February 2023)
Menu at La Pilareta (February 2023)
The menu at la Pilareta, February 2023
The menu at la Pilareta, February 2023

And of course, since the Tyris on Tap taproom is just around the corner from La Pilareta, what else to do but have a post-lunch beer! We even bumped into a bartender from one of our other favourite bars.

Beer board at Tyris on Tap (February 2023)
Beer board at Tyris on Tap (February 2023)
A pint of Tyris beer at Tyris on tap
A pint of Tyris beer at Tyris on tap
A pint of coca de llanda beer at Tyris on Tap
A pint of coca de llanda beer at Tyris on Tap

Another evening we booked in for El Almacén, one of our favourite places in Russafa for innovative cooking and great drinks. It is somewhere we come when we want to have fun and eat well. We may have drank a bit (and the dinner came after very dangerous home-made Agua de València by Devvers, and wine at ViveVino), and so we are a bit fuzzy on everthing we ate…

Hola Soledad! sign
Hola Soledad! (A sign for ME)
View of the kitchen at El Almacen NCR through the serving hatch
The kitchen at El Almacen NCR through the serving hatch
Falsa Pizza at El Almacen NCR
Falsa Pizza at El Almacen NCR
Dessert at El Almacen NCR - chocolate, strawberry, corn
Dessert at El Almacen NCR – chocolate, strawberry, corn

Slight diversion away from the food now! The next day we went to the CCCC to see the exhibitions and there was a fascinating show by Llorenç Barber. He builds soundscapes; one of them featured paellas and another involved people throwing dried chickpeas into pots.

Sound sculpture from Llorenç Barber, made with paellas
Sound sculpture from Llorenç Barber, made with paellas
Dal sole al sole - instructions from Llorenç Barber
Dal sole al sole – instructions from Llorenç Barber

After the museum we went to Habitual for lunch, and ate so much that we were (unusually) defeated by the rices on offer.

Ensaladilla rusa at Habitual
Ensaladilla rusa at Habitual
Croquetas de bacalao at Habitual
Croquetas de bacalao at Habitual
Inside the buñuelo de bacalao at Habitual
Inside the buñuelo de bacalao at Habitual
Tomato tatin at Habitual
Tomato tatin at Habitual
Rice with pork, beans and artichokes at Habitual
Rice with pork, beans and artichokes at Habitual
Rice with cuttlefish balls and truffle at Habitual
Rice with cuttlefish balls and truffle at Habitual
Mercado de Colón
Mercado de Colón

We ate even more than this over the week, so you will all just have to come and visit the region sometime and sample the foods for yourself, just like Big Zuu and us!

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